TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN THIS REVIEW:

AE LOCK-AF LOCK: Is an auto (A) exposure (E) lock (L) function that locks the camera whilst the AEL button is being pressed. This facility is applied to lock on the auto exposure and white balance so that photos will have corresponding exposure and balance.

APERATURE: As an example of how aperture works, the pupils of our eyes contract to let in less light but when it is dark, then our pupils expand to take in more light. Likewise, the aperture range of a lens refers to the amount that the lens can open up to let more light in or close down to allow less light in.

APERATURE PRIORITY MODE (A or AV) This mode is a semi-automatic/manual mode where you are able to choose the aperture and where the camera automates other settings such as the shutter speed, to ensure you have an evenness in exposure.

CHARGED COUPLE DEVICE: (CCD) The sensor converts light into electrical charges. Once the sensor changes the light into electrons, it then deciphers the value of each cell in the image. The sensor carries the charge across the chip and deciphers it at the corner of the array. Then an analog converter converts each pixel’s value into a digital value to a binary form.

COMPLIMENTARY METAL OXIDE SEMICONDUCTOR (CMOS) The sensor converts light into electrical charges, just as the Charged Coupled Device but with some differences. Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductors use many transistors with each pixel to increase and move the charge by using more traditional wires.

DEPTH OF FIELD: This refers to the zone of sharpness where images can be in focus over wider ranges of distances.

PIXEL: A shortening of the word PIX {Pictures and EL {Element, therefore means, Picture Element.
In digital imaging, a picture element is a single point in a raster image/ bitmap, simplified, a grid of pixels, and each pixel has three dots within it, a green, red and blue dot. Because the grid images are resolution dependant, they are therefore, only as good as the resolution {the measure of total pixels in an image), they were created in, so the more pixels the better the completed image. But, when the image is increased in size, it has to be remembered that although the pixels defining the image can be increased, increasing the number of pixels or making them bigger will result in the data being spread over a larger area which causes the image to lose clarity.

PROGRAM MODE (P): Program mode is similar to Auto but gives more control over some of the other features such as the flash.

MEGABYTE: A byte is the smallest amount of data or information, with each byte being composed of a number of bits, these are pieces of information. As an example, one million bytes equals one megabyte. I view this like a large file that has many single sheets of information within! To accommodate the large amounts, a number notation is put in front of the word megabyte.

GIGABYTE: A gigabyte refers to exactly the same as megabytes but is equal to far more bytes of data, one billion to be precise!

RESOLUTION: Is the amount of detail and the degree of sharpness that the camera can capture and this is measured in pixels.

SECURE DIGITAL HIGH CAPACITY FLASH MEMORY CARDS (SDHC): These cards have a minimum capacity of 4 gigabytes and afford removable memory for compatible digital devices such as digital cameras.

SHUTTER PRIORITY MODE (S or TV): Shutter priority is similar to the aperture priority mode but with this mode you select a shutter speed and then the camera automates the other settings.

TELEPHOTO LENS: is a lens that enables the photographer to take long focal length pictures. With telephoto lenses, there is a lens element at the front of the camera and a second element in the back of the lens in front of the film or in the case of digital cameras, the sensor, and these acts to magnify the front lens. Because the second element increases the focal length of the camera, it makes it seem as though the first lens is further away. Hence, the longer the focal length, the more clarity and increased detail can be seen at greater distances.

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FILMLESS CAMERA ~ HOW IT WORKS!

I find that I am better able to understand things when presented to me at an elementary level, and this is how I grasped the concept of how digital cameras work. By breaking down the components inside a digital camera, it simplifies the structural elements by being able to clearly identify them and noting what each of their task is.

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SEMICONDUCTORS

As opposed to focusing light onto film, digital photography focuses it onto a semiconductor device thereby recording the light electronically. The enclosed computer software of the camera then breaks the electronic information down into digital data, basically, its language!
The lens catches light from the image you are photographing and focuses it on the Charge Coupled Device (CCD) or Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor (CMOS); digital cameras operate these two types.

My camera has the CCD image sensor situated directly underneath the lens. These sensors are used in place of film! Not wishing to get into how solar cells work and losing readers by boredom, I’ll simply say that the CCD sensors in my camera create high-quality and low-noise images whereas CMOS sensors are generally more susceptible to noise. But CMOS sensors consume little power but I have a high energy output on my camera, this is because CCDs use a process that can consume as much as 100 times more than the CMOS sensors. But CCD sensors tend to have higher quality and more pixels than the CMOS sensors. More pixels equal better imaging!

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‘BATTERIES NOT INCLUDED’!

Well they were, but soon ran flat! My camera takes two AA batteries equaling a total voltage of 3 volts. Due to the high energy output on this device, I purchased a charger and rechargeable batteries.

This is just one of the many practical features this camera has. By simply pressing the MENU button, then pressing the FLASH sign that is located next to the SET button, the TOOL image will appear. Scroll down until you come to the 9th setting, BATTERY TYPE. You will be given a choice of four; Alkaline, NiMH, Lithium and Oxyride. NiMH setting is for rechargeable batteries. All batteries will have the relevant lettering/words noted on their base to inform you what type they are.

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RESOLUTION~PIXELS RULE OK!

Because the more pixels a camera has, the more detail it can take in. Furthermore, larger pictures can be obtained without them becoming coarse or hazy. My camera has a high 10 mega pixels resolution which equals to 9,980,928 pixels! This is important because, if like me, you take some bad shots, you will be able to adjust the quality by cropping. Also, with 10 mega pixels or more, enlarging prints will be available in excellent clearness. Of course, this is also handy with good shots. I have had great fun, editing many pictures this way, with far more success than the original pictures I took!

This resolution can furnish you with detailed images up to 16×20. The better the software in enlarging the images, the better the final pictures will be. I have found that this final outcome all depends on how I took the initial photos. I made several mistakes when using my camera with a view to enlarging certain photos. This was because I did not carefully read the comprehensive manual and run through the selections on the camera. For instance, I thought that as the device are 10 mega pixels, that are the size photos I was actually taking, Doh! My camera was initially set on a lower size to enable me to fit more pictures on my memory card. Unfortunately, by the time I realized this, I had missed the chance to enlarge the photos to the size I wanted.

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ZOOM LENS ~ ‘GETS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL’!

Digital cameras come with four types of lenses; Replaceable lens systems, Fixed-focus, fixed-zoom lenses, Optical-zoom lenses with automatic focus and Digital zoom, the latter two being the ones I have on my camera. My camera has a 3x optical zoom and 4x digital zoom lens. My optical-zoom lens with automatic focus has a telephoto range of 30-100cm (0.98feet-3.28feet) and wide options. These actually change the focal length of the lens rather than just magnifying the information that hits the sensor. The principal reason in using telephoto lenses is to be able to take photographs of images at a distance.

There is a negative side to using both the wide angle and telephoto lens features at the same time, because I need to move closer or further from my subject matter. This has presented difficulties when I’m attempting to take natural shots without the subject being aware i.e. pets.
It’s noteworthy to mention that the wide angle lenses exaggerates or stretches scenes/images, whereby the telephoto lenses compacts subject matter. Another negative side to using the optical zoom lens is that it is susceptible to the camera’s movement caused by even the smallest of my hand movements, hence, distorting the image somewhat.
I’ve found that one of the positive sides in using the appropriately designed wide angle lens is that it is more resistant to flare from light i.e. Sun. When taking twilight pictures, incorporating the wide angle facility has given me beautiful panoramic subtle scenes capturing closer images in blacks and greys whilst the sun setting in brilliant oranges and yellows without any white glares across the photos that is sometimes caused by direct angles towards a light source!

One of the fundamental advantages of using a zoom lens is that it is easier to achieve an assortment of compositions without having to take time out in order to change lenses and perhaps losing out on that valued photo opportunity! Because much of the time my subject matter includes my rather active grand-children, this feature is critical in order to catch the action as it happens!

With the digital zoom, the camera acquires pixels from the center of the image sensor and interjects them to make full sized images. Now, depending on the resolution of the picture and the sensor, this may develop a coarse or hazy image.

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FACE TRACKING ~ ‘SAVING FACE’!

My camera’s face tracking function automatically recognizes faces, smiles and even has blink detection! Even 007 would be proud of this little invention!

As mentioned under the sub-heading Semiconductors, digital cameras have computers built into their software. This software is also programmed for face detection, the camera is manufactured in that the database is formulated with millions of facial structures. Such material as relative positioning in the face, structures of the nose and eyes, distances of nose to eyes, face diameters and even skin tone temperatures! The database is not limited to recognizing one face in the image; it will simply focus on the central subject and then additionally focus on other subjects.

As soon as I press the shutter button halfway, the face tracking computational procedure takes the images in the frame, comparing these with the facial structure database, once a match is located, then that image is focused, all in what feels like milliseconds!

But, bear in mind that such issues as low lighting, folks not facing the camera and wide distances between subjects will affect the camera’s computer software’s abilities to recognize and focus. The camera’s extensive manual gives clear instructions on pages 37 to 41 on how to perform this task.

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ONBOARD 32 MEGABYTE MEMORY ~ SHORT TERM MEMORY!

The amount of memory this gave me was only fifteen pictures set on the lowest size! As this model is compatible with flash memory cards, I was able to up-graded to a SanDisk 4GB MicroSDHC Memory card costing me £9.97p from Tesco Direct. This expanded my picture capacity to 2,800! The camera slot for both Multimedia and Secure digital cards is located on the left hand corner at the base of the camera. I recently went to visit friends for a week, and kept taking as many pics as I wanted without having to once monitor my photo availability as I knew I had nearly 3,000 at my disposal. Of course, once I came home and had to wade through all the pics, choosing which to up-load on computer wasn’t as much fun! thanks to the ability to delete multiple files at any one time, for many badly taken shots, cut down the editing time.

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AE LOCK-AF LOCK ~ ‘UNDER LOCK’ BUT NO KEY!

I find this useful when taking panoramic views because it affords consistent exposure across all the subject matter. This practical tool can prevent over or under exposure of a centered subject. When I want to use the meter or center weighted resource, I select the Aperture Priority Mode, Shutter Priority Mode or Program Mode.

I use the aperture mode when I want to choose a specific aperture value to control the depth of field. For instance, when photographing landscapes whereby a narrow aperture is necessary to ensure sharp lucid imagery in the fore/ background and intermediate. As I am still gaining confidence in operating the various features, I like to use this mode because the camera automatically determines the correct shutter speed, which avoids me causing a poor exposure in my picture.

The shutter priority mode is brilliant when photographing moving subjects like when I attended my grand-son’s sports day in the summer. I needed a faster shutter speed to freeze the motion when my grand-son was in the races. Having this control but knowing the camera would automate the accompanying features is such a valuable asset for me.

The program mode furnishes me with control over some features such as the flash and white balance.

The automatic focus mode helps me gain control over where the camera focuses when I press down the shutter-release button half-way. Recently, I wanted to focus on my son when he was to one side of the setting I wanted to capture. Complying with the manual’s instructions to position the camera so the focus area indicator is on the subject. The auto focus setting can be located by clicking the MENU button, then selecting the CAMERA symbol, scrolling down to the fourth symbol, AF AREA, clicking on the SET dial, the words WIDE and CENTER will appear. By clicking to select the CENTER, I was ready to press the shutter-release button down half way to lock in the focus. Keeping my finger steady on this half pressed motion, I again composed the shot I wanted to take, and then fully pressed down on the button. This ensured that I had my son in clear and distinct focus. The whole operation was simple because the camera has guidance markings whilst performing this task. I will admit that the button is rather sensitive to judge the half way pressure, but as I use this technique more, I’m making fewer mistakes in putting too much pressure on and taking the pictures before I’ve recomposed my shots.

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AV OUT SOCKET ~ ‘PUT A SOCKINET’!

When I’ve recorded sequences, such as when I’ve captured a fun game at a party, I am able to view these recordings on my television with friends. Because my camera has an AV Out Socket, located on the left hand side of the device, and came with a USB/AV 3-in-1 cable, I simply set the TV to match the TV’s video’s out configuration, as noted on page 78 of the camera’s manual, then I connect the cable to the USB port on my camera, and the other two connections to the TV’s input port. The movie is then displayed with clarity and sound!

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‘IN A FLASH’!

This camera has, a Flash that can be disabled, Flash Mode – Fill-in, Flash Mode – Slow Sync, Flash Mode Auto and Flash Type Built-in.

The flash tool can be manually disabled. For instance, when I have been in a library or museum, whereby, the flash would be a distraction for others, I have been able to turn this feature off.

The Automatic mode is a real practical help for me. Sometimes, when the room is well lit and I go to take a picture, the Flash will sometimes trigger automatically because its software can detect when more light is needed. This has saved some neat pictures of my grand-children!

The flash mechanism can also counteract Red-eye by firing the flash several times prior to exposing the photo. This reduces the reflection in the subject’s eyes, the rapid flashes cause a subject’s pupils to contract minimizing the red-eye effect. But remember to tell your subjects before using this feature if you want to avoid the startled rabbit in headlights appearance that pre-flashes can cause folk to look like!

The fill in Forced flash implement, is used when additional lighting is needed. As in a case in point, when I’m taking a picture whereby the source of light is at the back of my subject.

The Slow sync/night scene instrument, is used to capture a dull lit background at night. A great mode for when I’m out bike riding with family members in the evenings.

Rear-curtain sync mode acts similar to Slow sync but with the difference in the flash which doesn’t fire until just before the shutter closes.
The manual gives simple instructions on pages 24 and 25 on how to procure these flash modes.

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HISTOGRAM DISPLAY ~ ‘MOVING ON UP THE CHART’

Fundamentally, the histogram is a graph that indicates the maximum range of light values the camera can capture.
On my camera, the histogram graph is displayed as a series of mountain peaks. The more of a specific colour, the taller the peak. The left side of the histogram represents the utmost dark values that the camera can record and the right side represents the uppermost white values the camera can capture. Additionally, In the middle of the histogram, there are the mid-range values that symbolize the middle colours. The top and bottom directions of the histogram, illustrated on my camera to look like valleys and peaks are to do with colour information.
What I need to look out for are the the left to right displays that represent dark and light. Because if my image is too dark, the graph will show this by clipping off the light values on the left, and if my image is too light, the histogram will exhibit this by clipping on the right. There are times the peaks seem to be going a little crazy, no doubt due to my erratic techniques!

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IMAGE EDITING SOFTWARE ~ ‘SPITTING IMAGE’!

On Pages 69-72 in the camera’s manual specifies how to perform such task as trim and resize. Then once I connect my camera using the 3 in 1 USB cable to the computer, I can ‘Photoshop’ or use various other sites to use my ‘Artistic license’ to get creative!

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ELECTRONIC IMAGE STABILIZER ~ ‘GOT A BAD CASE OF THE SHAKES’?

An electronic image stabilizatizer uses electronic processing to control an image’s stability. So, if the equipment’s sensors detect camera shake, the electronic image stabilizer commpensates for this by slightly moving the image so that it stays in the same place on the Charge-Coupled Device. The electronic stabilization works by amplifying the ISO sensitivity until the shutter speed is fast enough for a sharp photo. I tend to need this facility particularly when taking shots on windy days!

But it is worth mentioning that the Electronic image stabilization can result in a decrease in picture resolution.

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MACRO MODE ~ “ALL RIGHT MR DE MILLE, I’M READY FOR MY CLOSE-UP”!

The details for using this function is located on page 26 of the camera’s manual and by pressing the FLOWER symbol on the circular dial on the reverse of the camera. When this symbol is pressed, PF will appear on the screen, indicating that the pan focus is set which now means that the camera will focus on every object. Press the symbol again and INF will appear in the LCD screen, indicating that the infinity mode is set whereby the camera will now focus on distant images.

By incorporating my camera’s Macro mode helps me to get really close to the subject and produce superb magnified results. I love using this feature when photographing small animal and insects…back to the startled rabbit look. But I promise that, ”No Animals Were Harmed’ in the making of this film!

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MAXIMUM ISO RATING 3200 ~ OVER SENSITIVE, PERFECT!

ISO stands for the International Standardization Organization, which produced a numerical exposure index system that is used to indicate the light sensitivity of the film’s emulsion or sensor on digital cameras.

The ISO system: Film speed is the measure of photographic sensors (or photographic film’s in traditional cameras) sensitivity to light, determined by the scientific study of light-sensitive materials and generally measured on the ISO system.

So, ISO doesn’t control how much light enters the camera, but does however; control how sensitive the camera is to that light. The lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera is. Hence, a lower ISO will require more light to properly expose a picture than a higher ISO. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the image sensor and thus, the possibility to take pictures in low-light situations.

It would seem logical to deduce that the higher the ISO the better. Unfortunately, this isn’t the case because as the ISO is increased; this decreases the quality of the picture. This negative (excuse the pun!) effect is due to the increased sensitivity of higher ISO settings. While increased sensitivity means that the picture can be exposed with less light, it also means the picture will have more distortion. While a small measure of distortion/noise is ok, too much will simply destroy the picture.

I consider ISO as a number that typifies a trade-off between effectiveness, in low light and photo excellence. I personally find that the adequately high ISO value of 3200 with its variable settings on this camera enables me to adjust the setting when needed.

I recently wanted to take a photo of a deer, but my camera’s light meter indicated that there was insufficient light to expose the image. I didn’t want to use the flash and scare away my ‘subject’, so I simply set on the ISO Auto mode via the MENU; this way my camera automatically selects a higher ISO. I could have manually selected a higher ISO, but the calibrated auto feature saved me making any undue mistakes in seeing if the increased sensitivity permitted me to obtain a properly exposed picture. In fact, I didn’t have time to experiment as the little deer didn’t look like he was intending t hang around!

The manual supplies a great deal of information with appropriate symbols that one can co-ordinate with the many settings under the MENU function to assist in making decisions on photography.

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PICTBRIDGE COMPATIBLE ~ ‘CARBON COPY’!

PictBridge is a technology that permits printing images from memory cards in digital cameras directly to a printer.
It works by the camera’s software comparing its PictBridge functions to the functions of the printer. Once I’ve connected the camera to the printer via the 3 in 1 USB cable, the LCD screen displays the supported functions on its menu, which then shows print options along with media type, date, available sizes and layouts. I have a choice of how many pics I want to print from one to all that is on the memory card! I use my son’s Canon printer for this feature and it is still compatible, producing smashing imagery despite being a different brand from my AGFA camera.

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VIDEO RECORDING WITH SOUND ~ “CUT, PRINT, THAT’S A WRAP”!

My camera is similar to a traditional camcorder but records directly onto the memory card. Also, My camera ‘movies’ offer the convenience of being light and compact. The length of the video can be until the memory’s capacity has been exhausted. I love this feature when attending parties. Pages 51 to 60 of the User manual gives clear and concise terminology to explain this amazing feature, which also demonstrates the sound module. I find the sound works adequately audibly if I’m standing fairly close to the sound source.

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PC ~ ‘MAKING THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS’!

Of all the facilities available to me, this is the one I use the most: connecting my camera to my PC to up-load photos to make albums, e-mails and more! The fun of sending cherished pics to my daughter of her beautiful children, sending family who live abroad, pictures that will provide them terrific images of loved ones and so on. The possibilities are endless.

All the instructions are so easy to follow, with software disc provided. The camera is so user friendly. Now, much of the time I do not need even to consult the manual for many features as the camera’s MENU, FUNCTION and DIAL make operating almost second nature due to the simplicity in symbols.

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APERATURE ~THE ‘F’ WORD!

My camera has a Focal Length of f=6.2-18.6mm and Aperture of f/3-5.6
Basically, a camera’s aperture is written as f {focal length and then the number is divided by the aperture’s diameter.

An aperture like my camera’s f/5.6 is great for general uses as it affords an average depth of field. But setting a wider aperture, my camera has this facility, allows me to shoot in darker settings because it allows more light to reach the sensor. For instance, I’ve used this feature when I have been bike riding in the evenings. I have managed to take some lovely pictures of a river where across the water’s edge has the illuminated town. But I have found that the zoom couldn’t take in a great detail but the wider setting enabled me to catch the ambiance of the lights.

The depth-of-field extends in front of and also behind the point that you’re actually focused on. I have found that the best photos are taken by having a good focal length of the lens used, and being aware of the distance I am from the subject I want to photograph, and the aperture of my lens. To take the best shot, I need to vary these three until I have the appropriate settings. Unfortunately, as was the experience of taking the picture over the water to catch the town’s structures and lights, sometimes, I can only attain two out of three features! Although my camera sets the aperture automatically, I am also able to adjust the setting manually, thus giving me more control over the style I want to take photographs.

So, to obtain as much depth-of-field as possible along with attempting to catch as much clarity in detail, I use a wide-angle lens, and set a small aperture. Yet, for the times when I want to capture just my grand-children without taking in too much of the surrounding areas, I use the telephoto lens, setting a large aperture, and then I stand closer to my little subjects! This gives me sharp detail of the images I want to capture, but subtly phases out the background.

As a rule of thumb, it’s worth remembering that larger apertures have lower f-numbers and smaller apertures means that images. So, a higher F number set with a smaller aperture, with a slower shutter speed and a wider depth of field. Whereas, a lower F number, set on a larger aperture setting, with a faster shutter speed and narrower depth of field.

Lenses with a greater dimensions of aperture settings furnish one with greater creative adaptability. Personally, I like to air on the side of caution by setting my camera with a small aperture, because I have found that generally, both the fore and the background will have sharp clarity so that gives my photographs greater depth of field. I continue to experiment though, as I gain more confidence in using the various settings on the camera.

The aperture of f/3-5.6 on this model affords many artistic possibilities in creating some memorable pictures, such as when I take images of butterflies. The detail of these enchanting creatures, along with their vibrant colours is captivating.

Setting the aperture value is so simple on this model. By selecting the ‘AV’ from the ‘scene’ mode submenu, then pressing the ‘set’ button to enter the adjust mode. Now, by using the up and down triangular keys, you can select the required aperture value options. One of the superb features of this neat little camera is that you don’t have to adjust the shutter speed according to the aperture value because this model does this automatically to match the brightness and vice versa! How great is that?

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‘BOOKED IT, PACKED IT’….

The camera comes securely and practically packaged. The camera includes 2x AA batteries, grey durable nylon wrist strap, USB cable, AV cable, CD-ROM, camera pouch and an 88 page comprehensive User Manual.

I have condensed twenty-one fundamental features of this beautiful camera that only weighs 125g and dimensions being a very compact 92×60.5×25.03mm Yet there are so many more brilliant attributes to this product. Having written over 5,516 words on this apparatus, I feel the rest of this multi faceted camera should be left for you to enjoy in finding out should you decide to purchase. Which brings me to the price of this high quality digital camera. My son bought me this precious gift from Tesco Direct for just £39.95.

This camera has been one of the most valued gifts I have ever received due to the copious amount of features it allows me to enjoy. You can’t put a price on memories I suppose!

THANK YOU for taking the time to read and rate. PLEASE leave a comment so i will know you viewed this post and I can return the favour!

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